surf: in the learning process

Adam took Friday off from work to bring me and Bean to the beach. Of course, so he could surf; so the little one can play, and for me to continue to learn. I was so excited that, like a kid, I downloaded surf films and watched them all at once. I even read a few inspiring books! Wow, as my husband put it, I think I am stoked. Huh? Well, yeah. I feel like a kid all over again...and though it's weird, I like it.

Friday morning, Adam surfed...there was too much wind and the waves were big so they put off my lessons for later. Me and Bean played in the sand while we watched them surf. Whenever I watch people surfing, I often think it is so easy...but every time I give it a go....uhmmm.....moving on...

We had a hearty lunch and a little nap afterwards. It was my turn to go in the water that afternoon. In my opinion, I think the waves were wild for a beginner like me. But they said the conditions were still alright, so I gave it a try. I was so uncomfortable in the water because the current was strong and the shore break bothered me a lot. The hour-long lesson...I didn't get to finish which left me bummed out. So I just sulked and ate a lot of dinner. Boohoo.

Though, I thought it over before sleeping...I wasn't allowing disappointment to stop me from learning. Maybe, I should just try and try. If I want something, I can work hard for it. I know it in my heart. And I am glad my husband is very patient with me...mostly when I start to ramble negatively about how I am already good at wipe outs.

The sun greeted us the next morning, and I felt that it was a good day to have a go with surfing again. We ate a quick breakfast and headed on. We both feel lucky that our daughter is such a trooper. There were zero meltdowns (as usual) and she's very friendly with the locals there. She even offers them her toys so they can play together; they had a blast with her too.

Okay, so back to my mission...to be better. Because the waves were very clean, and just right for me...I had gazillion of rides this morning!!! I am so happy! I mean, I have a long way to go...but....but...I was able to get a number of rides...which eventually, I learned to turn in an hour. Oh, how I wish skills could be bought...I might nearly splurge on that. All in all, I had a great session this morning and I am looking forward to more surf and wipe outs.