30/52 and the surfing journey continues

30/52

"A portrait of my daughter, once a week, every week, in 2014." 

Not because I'm her mother; but, I really think this little lady is growing up beautifully. Not just physically. She is too sweet for words. Sometimes she can throw a fit, but that doesn't happen a lot. What we are so lucky about is how much she grew to love the ocean. The only trouble we get into is asking her to leave the beach. I am so proud of how she is turning out to be...well-spoken, well-mannered, and fun to be with. Our friends are becoming her family and we couldn't ask for anything more.

I found it so adorable when she approached the receptionist of the resort, raised her hand and said, "Excuse me can I borrow a bucket and a 'tabo' please. I need to take a bath," in her British accent. oh dear Bean, I love you more than anything else (your daddy and surfing too).

  

Now I will proceed to write about our long surf weekend. We left Friday afternoon so that we can be at San Antonio in Zambales for Adam's first ever competition.  We stayed that first night at Megan's Resort. The room was clean and spacious; the price was a bit higher than I expected...but that's okay as they said it's the most decent place in the area. We slept early as Adam needed to be at "Magic Left" by 7 in the morning. Me, my cousin, and Bean spent the whole morning watching heats and playing in the water. Too bad he didn't make it  to the semis, but that's okay. We have our whole life ahead of us to surf! Adam joined us for lunch...then we proceeded to watch the competition end. He even had a little more time to surf. That night we waited for JP and Joan to arrive. We had a few laughs here and there; joined the PSA party for a few drinks and called it a night. The next morning we packed our bags and proceeded to San Narciso where we feel most at home.

Ah! I am very thankful for my cousin who helps me manage Bean

on surf trips like these! Thanks Ten!

Most people these days are shocked at how dark-skinned I already am; but 

this kind of life makes me the happiest. 

I don't care what people think anymore.

Magic Left

Watching Adam surf makes my heart beat faster. I love you more and more

everyday. I am so grateful for all that you've brought into my life.

"This is the best day ever, mommy. I love the water; this is awesome! 

How about we go to the beach on my birthday?"

"Look. I made this castle for daddy. This will make him so happy!" 

We do not really need to entertain her so much; she builds her own

little world these days.

We spent the remaining days surfing and focusing on improvement while having fun. It was indeed fun. Though the last morning the swell was too big for us only Adam surfed.

Goofy foot, please go left.

Joan, I think is the bravest of us all. Haha.

JP, please buy a longer board. :)

I temporarily use Adam's board because I need to develop my paddle power to 

use mine.

Ten bracing herself for the drop.

And here are some screen captures from the GoPro that afternoon that the waves were small and friendly:

We are starting to feel like family; or we already are one. Every trip is fun and I think it helps us grow as individuals and as a group. While watching cartoons with Bean, I found this song very fitting for us:

Adventure Time Ending Theme Come along with me To a town beside the sea We can wander through the forest And do so as we please. Come along with me To a cliff under a tree. Where we'll gaze upon on the water As an everlasting dream All of my affections I'll give them all to you Maybe by next summer We won't have changed our tune 'Cause we'll want to be In this town beside the sea Making up new numbers And living so merrily All of my affections Give them all to you I'll be here for you always And always be for you Come along with me To a town beside the sea We can wander through the forest And do so as we please Living so merrily

29/52

             29/52

                 "A portrait of my daughter, once a week, every week, in 2014." 

Well, I have been quite busy being a mother lately...and on a mission to get stronger...so I haven't really got the time to pick up my camera. These pictures were taken with my iPad. Lately,  Bean says the funniest things (with her new Brit accent):

"Daddy, what do you do in your office all day?"

"Good morning, mommy. You have to say good morning to me too or you'd be rude."

"Can I have some milk? It's important."

"Actually, I think I have a problem."

"Please be happy mommy. I love you, is your heart happy now?"

"Can we go to Bali now?"

"Bali is my home. It's my favorite."

"I need to pack my stuff for the beach. I need my swimsuit, sun cream, shovels, and leash." (She'd say this every week).

After buying her toy binoculars...she keeps on saying she's a world explorer.

Oh the dreams we have for you little girl...but for now please don't grow up so fast.

28/52: let the sea set you free: of surfing and happiness

28/52

"A portrait of my daughter, once a week, every week, in 2014." 

Bean finally got her wish! Last month she was hospitalized with a case of amoebiasis and everyday since then she'd tell us she wants to go to the beach. We wanted to grant this wish so badly; but we were finding the perfect time budget-wise which would have the right conditions to include surf, and until this little girl is fully well. We thought she was...until last week when she had the same case of bacteria in her system. Even when she's sick she'd still wish for the same thing. As soon as my mom sent me an SMS saying they were going to our beach house, I was ecstatic. I immediately checked the forecast and called Adam to ask if we could go. Of course he said yes! This was a total package: Bean would get her wish, we get to surf, and we get to spend time with family.

Oh the look on Bean's face when we got there. Pure joy! I thought children these days are materialistic...but I guess she's an exception. We frequently take her to the toy store; but she rarely asks to buy something. She'd just tire herself looking through rows and rows of toys. 

She did not waste time gathering her toys and digging through the sand. We made sandcastles, mostly "sand-forms" as they did not nearly resemble castles. She was so happy I wanted to cry. The things we love are becoming the ones she loves too.

On to other things....

For sure Adam and I did surf. He was asking me to go out in the water first; but again you know me...fear gets the best of me most times...so I told him he could go test out the waters first to give me time to calm myself. The waves were bigger and consistent...I never though I could go out there. But because of his and Ton's prodding (Ton is the one who continues to help me get better when I surf there) I went for it. And the first ride I got was the best I had that day. It was my first left ever!!!! For more than a year I am the goofy foot who couldn't ride front-side. To top it off...that was the longest ride of my surfing life. What was on my mind at that moment: I remember Ton shouting to me that the wave was a left. I put weight on my back foot, compressed my knees, twisted my body a bit to the left... "I went left! It worked! So this is what the wall of a wave looks like. Should I touch it? Nah...just look...you might just spoil the ride." I was stoked! And Adam got to take pictures of it!

After that I had a hard time going back to the line up....I think it took around 20 minutes, 7 Eskimo rolls and a lot of sea water to drink. And then the waves were gone. It took a while for some sets to arrive...and as soon as they did this happened:

OUCH: late takeoff; early nosedive.

I literally "scorpion-ed" off my the board. Well, I guess sometimes this happens? It's just that it happens most times to me. Haha. Well. I got a long way to go...and my back still hurts up to now. In one hour I managed to get 2 rides, and one nasty nosedive. This was the last ride that morning:

Adam told me to write down my surf progress and I sure am going to be writing about it this week. Dearest husband also had the best ride of his life that morning. I love watching him surf. For one, this is his happiness...and then...I have seen how much he worked (and still works) hard for it. His love, commitment and dedication to surfing reflects how he is towards me and Bean. And I love him more and more each day.

We only surfed half of that day. We wished Joan, John Paul and Kirsten came! We proceeded to meet my parents at our beach house. We had a relaxing afternoon walking along the shore. bean had a blast collecting seashells and chasing little crabs. I had a great time talking with my husband and my parents.

A lot has changed through the years regarding our beach house and our beach trips. Before, family was always there...excited and ready to go anytime... now most of them are busy with their own things...whether it's work, personal stuff, lack of interest....I don't know if life is supposed to be that way. I don't get how other people take family time for granted. I am not afraid to state this because it is true. Adam and I value family...so I guess this is why I felt bad about this. But hey...who am I to insist for people to come when they refuse to go? To each his own. Right? Also, surfing gave me a new sense of happiness...and no matter how many bad wipe-outs I get...I keep on paddling back out for more.

This weekend was fun. I loved how happy our little girl was. I loved the surf. I love my family. These things are what makes up my heart. As I get older I find value in making memories than purchasing the next big thing. My husband taught me that during the early parts of our relationship and it has made me the happiest girl in the world.

Yoga by the beach. I do this to prevent stiffness of the body after surf..anda

also to develop core strength.

We are always looking forward to the next trip.

We hope to make more friends along the way.