Paddle, Paddle Harder, Paddle Hardest

For a week we have been debating to go or not to go to Zambales for surf last weekend because of information that it would be flat. We thought of heading for Baler or Real...but honestly, Adam and I felt that no matter what we wanted to push through with the trip. We informed our friends, Joan and JP that it was a go. I was both excited and anxious because of two things: I get to surf with Adam; and Bean was not coming with us. As everyone knows, I find it hard to part with Bean even for a day. I don't know...maybe it's because we've been together since day one.

Anyway, during our drive on the highway double rainbows were our view. I didn't think any of it; until our trip ended...but I now conclude that it indeed gave us luck! When we arrived, the waves were clean! It was perfect for me (or for my level I think). All of us immediately went out in the water. After a while on the inside; we saw that there were big waves farther out. Adam asked me if I wanted to go there. I said yes. I don't know why...but I did. Paddling out there took away all my energy. I almost gave up and asked Adam if I could just hold on to his foot or leg rope so he can pull me! But in my heart I wanted to make it. And I did. I had no plans on catching a wave out there; the goal was to familiarize myself in the lineup. Until the locals and Adam told me to just give it a try. It's still hit or miss (mostly, miss hehe) but the rides were smooth and long...paddling out was worth it. I still have a hard time with my board, sometimes I feel like when I paddle it doesn't move at all! But with determination I was able to reach the lineup multiple times. Even JP and Joan got rides! It was an epic morning that first day!

I am so proud of you for achieving your goals, Adam.

I'm your number one fan.

I know it might look rough;

but this was one of the longest rides I got.

Joan, day one.

We went for another session that afternoon. I thought eating a lot and drinking a bottle of beer would restore my energy. I felt fine that afternoon; not until we paddled back outside...my arms felt like noodles; but I was so hooked I didn't care. Surfing has pushed me out of my comfort zone. It taught me to work harder for the things I really want. It continuously teaches me that good things can never be rushed, to never give up...and above all...to just enjoy.

I am still the goofy foot who can't go left.

One day soon.

Joan caught a good ride that wasn't captured on camera.

But she was in awe of the wall she forgot to touch it!

She says this was most memorable for her.

Hello, Mango!

Now he goes left.

That night we drank beer; maybe to celebrate or relax. It was a good thing we pushed through with the trip. My body hurt all over; and I was sure I was nowhere near surfing the next morning.

But I did. We all did.

The waves were thicker, messier, and bigger. You know that feeling when you want something so bad, you just go ahead and do it no matter what? Guess that's how we all felt. Everyone went out. The most memorable part of this trip for me was not really the long rides...

There was a point that morning that I wanted to make it to the lineup just for another sweet ride...but we all have our limits...no matter how much I told my brain to paddle hard...my arms just wouldn't. They just gave up. Suddenly, a big set came in. And I managed to Eskimo/turtle roll about three waves. It took me a little bit back nearer the shore...so I paddled, paddled, paddled. Then another big set was approaching....a girl was also on her way to the lineup and she said (to no one in particular), "No! Don't let this break on me!" It looked like the peak was exactly going to break on us...so I responded, "Not on me either!" I am pretty sure it was pure adrenaline that I out-paddled her and made it past the breaking wave. After that, I was feeling so drained. My heart was about to explode in my chest. But all I could think about was "I made it!" And it wasn't so bad at all.

Adam was right all along. That's how surfing will make you feel. You keep on wanting it no matter what!