28/52: let the sea set you free: of surfing and happiness

28/52

"A portrait of my daughter, once a week, every week, in 2014."

Bean finally got her wish! Last month she was hospitalized with a case of amoebiasis and everyday since then she'd tell us she wants to go to the beach. We wanted to grant this wish so badly; but we were finding the perfect time budget-wise which would have the right conditions to include surf, and until this little girl is fully well. We thought she was...until last week when she had the same case of bacteria in her system. Even when she's sick she'd still wish for the same thing. As soon as my mom sent me an SMS saying they were going to our beach house, I was ecstatic. I immediately checked the forecast and called Adam to ask if we could go. Of course he said yes! This was a total package: Bean would get her wish, we get to surf, and we get to spend time with family.

Oh the look on Bean's face when we got there. Pure joy! I thought children these days are materialistic...but I guess she's an exception. We frequently take her to the toy store; but she rarely asks to buy something. She'd just tire herself looking through rows and rows of toys.

She did not waste time gathering her toys and digging through the sand. We made sandcastles, mostly "sand-forms" as they did not nearly resemble castles. She was so happy I wanted to cry. The things we love are becoming the ones she loves too.

On to other things....

For sure Adam and I did surf. He was asking me to go out in the water first; but again you know me...fear gets the best of me most times...so I told him he could go test out the waters first to give me time to calm myself. The waves were bigger and consistent...I never though I could go out there. But because of his and Ton's prodding (Ton is the one who continues to help me get better when I surf there) I went for it. And the first ride I got was the best I had that day. It was my first left ever!!!! For more than a year I am the goofy foot who couldn't ride front-side. To top it off...that was the longest ride of my surfing life. What was on my mind at that moment: I remember Ton shouting to me that the wave was a left. I put weight on my back foot, compressed my knees, twisted my body a bit to the left... "I went left! It worked! So this is what the wall of a wave looks like. Should I touch it? Nah...just look...you might just spoil the ride." I was stoked! And Adam got to take pictures of it!

After that I had a hard time going back to the line up....I think it took around 20 minutes, 7 Eskimo rolls and a lot of sea water to drink. And then the waves were gone. It took a while for some sets to arrive...and as soon as they did this happened:

OUCH: late takeoff; early nosedive.

I literally "scorpion-ed" off my the board. Well, I guess sometimes this happens? It's just that it happens most times to me. Haha. Well. I got a long way to go...and my back still hurts up to now. In one hour I managed to get 2 rides, and one nasty nosedive. This was the last ride that morning:

Adam told me to write down my surf progress and I sure am going to be writing about it this week. Dearest husband also had the best ride of his life that morning. I love watching him surf. For one, this is his happiness...and then...I have seen how much he worked (and still works) hard for it. His love, commitment and dedication to surfing reflects how he is towards me and Bean. And I love him more and more each day.

We only surfed half of that day. We wished Joan, John Paul and Kirsten came! We proceeded to meet my parents at our beach house. We had a relaxing afternoon walking along the shore. bean had a blast collecting seashells and chasing little crabs. I had a great time talking with my husband and my parents.

A lot has changed through the years regarding our beach house and our beach trips. Before, family was always there...excited and ready to go anytime... now most of them are busy with their own things...whether it's work, personal stuff, lack of interest....I don't know if life is supposed to be that way. I don't get how other people take family time for granted. I am not afraid to state this because it is true. Adam and I value family...so I guess this is why I felt bad about this. But hey...who am I to insist for people to come when they refuse to go? To each his own. Right? Also, surfing gave me a new sense of happiness...and no matter how many bad wipe-outs I get...I keep on paddling back out for more.

This weekend was fun. I loved how happy our little girl was. I loved the surf. I love my family. These things are what makes up my heart. As I get older I find value in making memories than purchasing the next big thing. My husband taught me that during the early parts of our relationship and it has made me the happiest girl in the world.