We have been surfing weekly since the start of this year. I love it so much but sometimes we need to learn to control our thirst for this passion. Last January 9, Adam surfed a new spot with Bean's godfather, Alvin. I didn't get to try it because I know I need more skill to go out on waves that size. But the boys let me have my share of fun that afternoon with knee to waist high waves.
Last weekend, we went on a three-day surf trip. I even joined a mini competition on the spot. I honestly didn't want to because Adam was not there, I was taking care of our girl in between heats and I know I have been used to using my trusty old 8'0" and it was a long-board competition using boards 8'6" and above. I honestly suck using a 9'0". And after every round I was secretly wishing to fail. But I made third place, surprisingly! I know I am not the "contest" type of person but I had fun. :) The sets were waist to shoulder high during that morning and even the next day. I usually prefer waves around shoulder to head high....and on the third day..... it was head high to overhead (based on my height).
I was wearing a watch that time because I wanted to surf only for an hour. After two straight nights of drinking and two straight days of surfing...I was exhausted. Kei and Tanya were there to take care of Bean that's why we have been having so much water time....and before paddling out to surf those overhead waves I thought to myself...."why did it have to be this big when my body is so tired!"
It took me 30 minutes to get to the lineup. This included me calling Adam because I panicked. I wanted him to paddle out beside me. After a grueling 30 minutes I reached the lineup with tears on my eyes. Deep inside I wanted to redeem myself....so as the sets came in I put all that I learned into use. I chose a sizable wave smartly. I paddled so hard, took off early, angled to the right and then sharply turned to the left...and I used everything in me to trim that wave properly. And I did it. I was so happy that people were commending me for that "ride of the day" I feel like the thirty minute paddle out with tears didn't matter anymore.
Adam and Joan had a great time, too! I feel so proud of Adam for achieving his goals on the timeline he has set for himself. I am also proud of Joan for coming out stronger every session. I am also happy that JP is already enjoying his board. We have only been surfing together for 7 months...but this lot feels like family to me.
After this trip we all decided to rest for a while. I injured my wrist this last session. Honestly, I have been feeling the pain on my left wrist since October last year....but I paid it no mind. I did more yoga and surfed more thinking that I would become stronger....but because I never took a break from my practice and from catching waves....my wrist gave in. I can't even use it for anything. Even Joan has an injury to nurse. I know we are taking a break from it all...but in the back of my head I am thinking of the next surf trip....and how to pop up with one hand! Yes, it's that addicting.
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