.....we just came home from a three day trip to Baler a few days ago. This time, we went with another group of friends...familiar but somewhat new. There's Jay and Mon. And even though at first it felt like I was out of my comfort zone, it only took a few minutes to feel at home with these new faces. Because everybody knows I'm the type of person who runs out of things to say...or that one who doesn't know what to talk about, I was quite nervous. Little did I know I was in for a three-day laugh trip.
It took over two weeks to organize this trip...and then it was also supposed to be cancelled because of news regarding a storm; gladly, everything pulled trough. Adam told me it wouldn't be raining during the days we were there...but we were in for a surprise.
The waves were big. From Thursday to Saturday....they were big. Every time I wake up in the morning I can hear the waves crashing on the shore. I always take a look from the balcony and I feel my nerves starting to tell me to just give up--not to paddle out.
Oh but what beauty it is to me, or to us. Those perfect lines, clean and glassy. Thankfully, all the people we were with on this trip were all optimists. Especially, Mon. He would cheer me on the whole time in the water. his humor actually calmed my nerves and helped me decide to just get it over with and catch those waves.
And I did. I got what I came for, and I felt brave.
Adam also had a great time riding wave after wave until he strained himself from trying to Eskimo roll this big wave...and add to that, losing one contact lens in the sea. But that didn't stop him from surfing. He even paddled out with me to the lineup on our last morning surf because I almost chickened out with the size of the sets and the large number of people surfing.
Growing up, I was very sheltered and I haven't enjoyed this kind of life until now. Only now do I have the privilege of traveling with new faces, meeting authentic and unique people...and I am only starting to feel the freedom of being my own person.
When I'm out there I can't explain the happiness I feel. And though I had my worst wipe out on this trip; even though my form appeared to be weird; even when I was having a hard time trimming the waves...I constantly remind myself that experience is the best teacher. I may not be where I want to be yet, and I know I've got a long way to go...but it feels so great knowing that I have come far from where I began and that i have my whole life to work on this
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